I was welcomed Tuesday evening by Rachel, a young schoolteacher and tri-lingual interpreter, for three nights in Chartres. Wednesday afternoon we wandered downtown and toured the amazing cathedral, one of the first sites recognized as a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Site.
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Chartres Cathédral |
Built in less than 50 years on the site of at least 5 prior cathedral, la Cathédral Notre Dame de Chartres has 176 stained glass windows Renovations have been made to clean its interior and exterior: What a dramatic difference in the color of the stone!
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That color difference isn't just shadow... |
Downhill from the cathedral are sculpted gardens and the old city along the river, with the remains of an original wall surrounding the city, la Porte Guillaume (William's Door).
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Gardens below the cathedral |
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Dining delight |
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Ruins of Porte Guillaume |
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Trompe l'oeil fresco |
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Médiathèque |
I wanted to make dinner for Rachel, who had tests to grade, so we stopped at an authentic French produce marché (meaning I was immediately chastised for touching the zucchini!).
I was so impressed with the pride of the shopkeeper that I stopped in again on Thursday to buy oranges and chat some more. When he learned I was from the U.S., the merchant told me he is so excited to visit New York City in November -- the fulfillment of a lifelong dream. It was inspiring to realize that the American Dream still motivates many an entrepreneurial spirit, although I think with his sense of purpose, this one would be a success no matter where.
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Modest shopkeeper |
For my last evening in Chartres, Rachel and I celebrated mutual successes: I had held my own in a day of conversation with my French family, and she had just received tenure at her school!
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Rachel |
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Weird and wrong... |
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Beurre salé caramel, glace vanille, crème fouettée. Ah! |
Always the adventurer, I ordered a Bigoudène : andouille de Guéménée, pommes caramélisées, compote. Mon Dieu, I've never had sausage that smelled and tasted so bad -- Ugh!! Thankfully dessert was amazing, and after walking a bit Rachel and I took seats to watch Chartres en Lumières, a light show projected onto the cathedral façade. Wow!! Absolutely enchanting.
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